The Battle Known as "Lumeçon"

The Procession on Rue des Clercs

12:25 p.m., Trinity Sunday. The procession comes to an end. The Golden Car has climbed the Sainte-Waudru ramp and returned to the collegiate church. The “patron saint of the city” is safe. The bells of Sainte-Waudru begin to ring, and the belfry’s carillon plays the tune of the Doudou. It is time. Time for Saint George and the Dragon to descend Rue des Clercs. These two legendary figures are about to face off in the Grand-Place. Thousands of locals from Mons await them. Nothing in the world would make them miss this event.
Saint George leads the way, closely followed by the Chin-chins, charged with protecting him. Police officers and firefighters, full-fledged characters in their own right, take part in the festivities. All head toward the arena with a fervor worthy of the greatest gladiator battles.

A Precisely Choreographed Fight

For 30 minutes, Saint George and the Dragon circle each other in the arena — Saint George moves clockwise, guided by his protective Chin-chin, while the Dragon, carried by 11 men in white and supported at the tail by 8 “leaf men,” moves in the opposite direction.

Around them, 12 Chin-chins protect Saint George from 11 devils armed with inflated bladders. Everyone knows their role to lead their master to victory. The fight is intense. The people of Mons cheer them on. Their cries echo from every corner of the square.

But contrary to appearances, this “chaos” is in fact highly organized. Every movement is calculated. The performers — locals from all social and professional backgrounds — rehearse throughout the year to faithfully follow the script. Some wait years for the honor of taking on a role.
 

The People of Mons on the Front Line

The spectators also take part in the spectacle. As full participants in the battle, they rush to snatch handfuls of the Dragon’s mane. Devils and Chin-chins struggle with one another and engage the crowd standing around the rope. It’s a rare moment of unity. Social barriers disappear. It doesn’t matter who wins.
Saint George always ends up victorious. After breaking three lances and using his sword, he fires three shots with his pistol — one of which misfires — and the Dragon collapses.
More than a victory of Good over Evil, this ritual game, whose origins in Mons date back to the 14th century, conveys a powerful sense of reconciliation — that of all the people of Mons.
As the characters of the Lumeçon head toward City Hall, the crowd floods the arena chanting, “And the people of Mons shall not perish.” Everyone wants to take home a bit of the Dragon’s mane or a gift offered by one of the actors: bladders, bells, leaves...